Guillame Henry's moody and futuristic spring brought a new edge to every French femme's favored fashion house with touches of Goth and an overhaul of gloss to add to the distinctly '90s undertone.

Lacquer covered almost everything at Nina Ricci's spring show, from vampy lips that matched the (also glossy) oxblood runway to the majority of the leather looks. Feminine takes on masculine cuts like stiffly structured jackets, silk palazzo pants with cargo touches and over-the-hand sleeves hit the dimly lit runway. The more girly pieces were typically mini dresses with poufs of ostrich feathers that created more of an awkward blowback than funky flow, but there were some home run micro-pleated shifts that stood out as the collection's most figure hugging of pieces.

Coat dresses made an appearance, their mannish silhouettes broken up with deep v necklines while simple silk blouses were accented with a new layering piece: sheer aprons-inspired overlays. With such a reputation for classic French sex appeal (particularly its sultry lingerie) the design house's new look received mixed reviews from critics for Henry's assumed lack of footing in his new position, though one could see it as an intentional reinvention of the old school French allure.

Shop: current season Nina Ricci

Known for his quintessentially romantic and heavily embellished gowns, Elie Saab followed down a different road for his Spring 2016 collection. Of course, there were signature Saab undertones, but instead of his habitually ornate evening wear, chic and approachable frocks made their way down an equally bright runway Saturday.With designers everywhere scrambling to design for the ever-trendy street-chic movement, it's no surprise that Saab's normally ornate taste took to the streets on heavyweight models like Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid (a not-so-subtle attempt to garner a younger audience, perhaps?)

Either way, the designer's youthful revival was a notable one. Playful contrast was prevalent with tiered lace mini dresses layered beneath brightly color-blocked bombers for a carefree vibe. Bohemian lace, crochet knits and floral microprints (accented with plenty of sparkle) mimicked the house's signature style in a more sensible everyday wearability, while a out-of-character track suit made a quick appearance for that obvious punch of sport. It was hard to spot a neckline that wasn't pussy-bowed with thin and thick ribbon alike, a notable French touch to a collection that seemed more suited for the more new school runways of NYFW.

Shop: current season Elie Saab

The focus of Junya Watanabe's spring show was less on garment construction and more on accessories. The designer communicated a clear message with his space-age-meets-African-tribal collection appropriately showcased at Paris' National Museum of Immigration History.

The location was a statement in itself, creating what we can assume to be an intentionally semi-awkward setting only to be expected when surrounded by the outdated historical manifestation of French colonialism. The collection followed suit with a not-so-subtle nod to the popular and controversial topic of cultural appropriation. Watanabe created pieces that, at their boldest, featured African prints on tribal-style body wraps cocooning the cast of all-white models whose faces were made up with a fashion version of African scarification.

Oversized shirtdresses draped and tailored with chains into shifty, oval silhouettes seemed more approachable, made with leopard and palm embroidered lace and brightly hued hounds tooth prints. Watanabe's real focus was on accessories though, creating funky woven tiger and zebra pelts made for draping over your shoulder and coils exaggerated versions of neck-lengthening that circled and tangled over the models' shoulders. Keep an eye out for the twisting sculptural headpieces that could easily become the next street style standout piece.

Shop: current season Junya Watanabe

-Emma Ranniger