As though Katherine Hepburn strolled into the court of King Louis XV, A Détacher's 1930s-styled suits and bow blouses marched the runway underneath hair powdered and piled high. The pale faces juxtaposed nicely with Mona Kowalska's bright and patterned clothes. The designer's theme was "going awry," commentary on current politics. So her pant suits that veered toward the punky seemed like a rallying uniform.

Photo by Indigital Images

To balance Kowalska's rebellious yet comfortable sportswear collection, Orlando Santiago of Guerlain pulled on the French Court and Victorian era, periods of pomp and circumstance when it came to grooming. Kien Hong of Oribe topped things off with pompadours, that French hairstyle made famous by the king's courtesan and then adopted by subsequent subcultures.

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With a pale complexion and muted red lips, Guerlain focused on keeping the skin very light, radiant and simple.

1. To get this look Orlando, used Guerlain Meteorites primer all over the face to add shimmer and radiance without making the skin glossy.

2. In the center of the cheeks he applied the new La Petite Robe Noire lip and cheek tint.

3. Then a light layer of Guerlain Lingerie De Peau foundation was added all over the face and cheeks.

4. The look demanded that the eyes were muted since the lips were such a focal point. Orlando used the Multi-Perfecting concealer under the eyes and on the eyelids to correct dark circles. He did a nude brow to add dimension and texture to the face using the one-color eyeshadow in White mixed with the Multi-Perfecting concealer.

5. For the lip, Orlando wanted to create a matte look with smooth edges. He started by preparing the lips with KissKiss Liplift, and then layered on Rouge G de Guerlain lipcolor in Garconne, smudging the edges for a softer look. To soften the lips even more, he used Meteorites compact powder on top of the lips.

SHOP: Guerlain makeup

The hair was very elaborate, unique to each girl, and required multiple Oribe products used with figure-8 pins.

1. Start with a base of Oribe Foundation Mist to prepare the hair for styling.

2. Add the Maximista Thickening spray to wet hair for the ultimate volume and to protection during heat styling. Blow dry.

3. Apply the cult-favorite Dry Texturizing Spray at the base of the roots to create that pompadour lift.

4. Straighten the hair with a flat iron.

5. Pin the hair into place, either as a very loose bun at the back of the head or in a half-up hairstyle, being sure to keep the front piece elevated in a teased pompadour.

6. Apply the Imperméable hair spray to the roots and top. The spray will maintain the hair's soft look.

SHOP: Oribe hair There's plenty of more beauty and fashion coverage from New York Fashion Week.

-Britt Burritt