At 1:07pm, most of the models are still in hair and makeup as the backstage wardrobe room at the Manhattan Center bristles with the noise of paper ripping. The looks from Marc Jacobs' new collection have arrived. They're in sets of five or so inside the brown wrapping; within each set, each look is hung in an individual plastic bag-like the ones your drying cleaning comes home in. Draw-string bags filled with accessories and add-ons are attached to each outfit.

All images by Michael Yuri Chard

Historically speaking, the Marc Jacobs show has closed out NYFW; it usually happens at 6pm and-in contrast to just about every other show-not a minute or two after. We've been invited to hang out backstage and watch the action unfold, and then capture the spring spectacular on the runway.

Guido, fashion's favorite hairstylist, was responsible for the Rainbow Brite dreadlocks that, once the models filed into to be dressed, made for tricky maneuvering into sequin-studded mini riffs on Gunne Sax dresses and club hoodies emblazoned with larger than life sparkly patches-designed by British illustrator Julie Verhoeven. None other than Francisco Nars designed the frosty pastel eyes-Phoebe Dual-Intensity eyeshadow, Desdemona, ... Interseller eye paint. We're told that the beauty crews arrived at 4:30 this morning; the girls started filtering in at 6:30. Working in teams of four or so, stylists pinned and tucked the giant candy- and jewel-colored strands into each girl's hair, every intricate tangle taking at least two hours to complete.

With the tall, beautiful mess on one end and a pair of dangerously high platforms-clogs, many-buckle sandals, and boots that Ziggy Stardust would have loved-on the other, the already statuesque beauties seem to be on stilts, or in funhouse mirrors.

By 1:44pm they're all dressed and taking labored, slow, sloped-body steps up a shallow staircase toward the stage where they line up and wait for the Go sign. We watch the parade for awhile, and then head up the venue's stairs to a balcony pre-selected for it's nest-like view on the dark, surreal street scene below.

There's Andre Leon Tally, seated with Whoopie Goldber. There's Corine Roitfeld talking with Stephan Gan. There's Courtney Love. There's Grace. Where's Anna? She must be on her way.

A voice through the audio system begins strongly suggesting that everyone find their seats, and after the third reminder Lady Gaga walks in on the arm of a companion. Her platforms are impossibly high, too. As soon as she is seated, the house lights come down.

Producer Steve Mackey's remix of Underworld's "Born Slippy" snakes out and hits everyone with a sense of '90s nostalgia. Kids, the Limelight, Primal Scream, mini backpacks and max-wide pants.

The collection isn't a throwback though, it's a fairytale. A fantasy about a magical proto-internet party that lasts all night and never really ends. Where color is everything, where roller disco is back (it's just wearing sport socks now), where brocade and leopard go with little girl heart patterns, where pants aren't always necessary ( paging Man Repeller), and where embellishment-pins, patches, anything shiny, everything overdone-is the code word needed to get in the door. Oh, and where there are a lot of feathers.

Marc Jacobs' collections are always spectacular. They just are. Sometimes they're somberly spectacular, though. Filled with mood. Thursday's was full of happiness and imagination. Make-believe and memories. And a future with lots and lots of rainbows.

EXPLORE: current season Marc Jacobs | all designer collections

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-Laura Cassidy